I discovered online that 84 of the 108 Divyadesam are in Tamil Nadu. I visited the 61st Divyadesam on the 28th of August 2022, the dual temples in Thiruneermalai. Thiruneermalai is 18 kilometers from Adyar, Chennai, and about 7 km from the airport. Yes! In our backyard (for the readers who reside in Chennai). I started at 4:15 pm and reached in a little over half an hour. The route is straightforward. Drive straight from the airport, take a right at the Pallavaram Junction, and drive further for a couple of kilometers. The temples open at 5 pm and close at 8 pm. The Neervanna Perumal temple is at the foot of the hill, and the Ranganatha Perumal temple is at the top. The temple’s uniqueness is that Lord Vishnu has appeared in four postures at this very place.
Reaching the temple
Giant Chariot
The road that leads to both the temples can be deceptive; I circumambulated the hill in my car once before I spotted the giant chariot. You have to take a right at the chariot.
Parking
There is ample space to park in and around the hill. However, there are several kalyana mandapams close to the temple. Since 28th and 29th were auspicious days, there were several incoming cars. However, since I reached early, I found a decent parking spot. I choose to visit the temple at the top of the hill first.
Steps and the climb
There are three hundred steps to the hilltop. There is no other way to reach the hilltop. There are no pit stops or monkeys(compared to Thirukadigai Yoga Narasimha Temple), so you can carry your water and offerings as you please. The weather was perfect that day. As soon as you climb a few steps, the Hanuman Shrine is to the right. You might miss the spot if you do not know how to read Tamizh.
Shri Rangnatha Permual Sanctum
I reached at 5:15 pm at the hilltop. There are a few more steps to the sanctum as soon as you enter. You don’t have to go to your right or left, as the stairway can be seen right before you. You will receive darshan at the Sri Ranganatha Perumal first. Sri Ranganatha Perumal is reclined on Adishesan, with Lord Brahma springing from his navel (Nabhi Kamalam); Goddesses Sridevi and Bhudevi are seated at his feet. The priest take the effort to direct you to all the divinities inside the sanctum. He repeats the details for every group of devotees walking in. Follow the directions of the priest. You will also be able to receive the darshan of sages Brigu Maharishi and Markandeya Maharishi within the sanctum.
Since it was not that crowded when I reached, I had the opportunity to pay obeisance to Shri Ranganathar for a longer time. I have not experienced such a close-up or proximity to darshan anywhere. I got lucky that day; the priest stepped out for a minute, and there were no other devotees; it was just Ranganathar, and he mesmerised me. I stood in admiration.
Sri Ranganayaki Sanctum is on the right as you exit, at the same level, as mesmerising as Shri Ranganathar. The temple’s structure is so that the other two shrines have a short climb as you circumambulate the Shri Ranganathar sanctum. We arrive at the Shri Shanta Narasimhar Sanctum next.
Shri Shanta Narasimhar Sanctum
Shri Shanta Narasimhar is sitting calmly. You can also see a child-like Narasimhar deity; Shri Narasimhar appeared in his calm composure for the sake of the little boy Prahaladhan. We have heard from stories that Narasimhar appeared to save Prahaladan from Hiranyakashpu as Ugra Narasimhar, and several intertwined events led to the specific avatar or appearance of the Lord. I was curious to know when the arrival of Shanta Narasimhar happened.
Shri Ulagalanda Perumal – Shri Vamanar Sanctum
There is no equivalent English transliteration for the phrase ‘Ulagalanda Perumal.’ Here is an attempt to bring out the meaning. King Mahabali had promised three feet of land as a gift to the learned brahmin Vamana, another avatar of Lord Vishnu. The Lord’s first and second steps consume the entire earth; there is not enough left to claim the third foot of the land. King Mahabali, to keep up his word, offers his head for the third foot. As Lord Vishnu claims the earth in just two steps, he is known as ‘Ulagalanda Perumal’ – the Lord who measured (consumed) the planet with just his feet. Therefore, the Lord appears walking at this temple. I follow my grandmothers’ guidance on observing deities – upward from the divine feet to the sacred crown. If you also take that approach, you will notice only one foot forward, a unique darshan.
The View, outer Praharam, and the Prasadam counter
You complete and descend back to the temple’s entrance, and you will find the prasadam counter. I was hungry by then. But I chose to circumambulate (relaxed and slowly) the temple thrice before taking a little rest. The breeze outside was just right, with just the right amount of light. The puliyodarai and the podi dosa seem like a popular pradsam amongst devotees; I just took the puliyodarai. I also found the pepper vada/thattai, the one offered in Hanuman temple as vada malai, so I gleefully took that as well.
The View
You can see the entire Pallavaram from the top of the hill; a delightful sight, and many plots are still not built into apartments. Thiruneermalai means a mountain surrounded by water; however, I could see only the Neervanna Perumal temple tank filled with water at this time.
A cat that has made the temple his home
A cat had made the temple his home. He was friendly to all the visitors and allowed kids to pet him. Friendliness is unusual because cats usually choose when to let even their owners pet them. He meowed generously to ask for food from any devotee. But puliyodarai was not his preferred food; he wanted the fried murukku a little boy was eating. The boys’ parents were sensitive to the cats’ demands and pleaded with the boy to give one from his packet, but the boy did not intend to share; he did not even understand why he should share. His mother could not take it anymore and forcibly took one and gave it to the cat, and the cat was pleased. The boy roared;
The Neervanna Perumal Temple
The Neervanna Perumal Temple is to the left once to descend from the hill. The main sanctum, the Lord of the place, Shri Neervanna Perumal shrine is on your right as soon as you enter the temple. Neervanna Perumal is standing in all his glory. For a minute, Neervanna Perumal reminded me of Lord Venkatachalapathi in Tirupathi. The next sanctum is that of Animamalar Mangai Thayar, followed by Lord Rama’s shrine.
The Temple Background
The brief history – translated from Tamizh to English
The temple is 2000 years old and appears in the list of 108 Divyadesams. The temple’s uniqueness is that the Lord Ranganathar gives darshan in four postures – standing, sitting, reclining, and walking. Thirumangai Alvar and Bhoothath Alvar have sung verses about the Thiruneermalai temples. Thirumangai Alvar has said that visiting Thiruneermalai shrines will give the equivalent results of seeing four other Divyadesams – Nachiyar Koil, Thiruvali, Thirukudandai, and Thirukoilur. Bhoothath Alwar has equated the darshan to that of Srirangam and Thirupathi. The Lord Ranganathar has appeared on the behest of the Sage Valmiki, Sage Brigu, and Sage Markandeyar. It is said that during the Dwapara Yugam, there were only two hills – Apokilam and Thiruneermalayil. Narasimhar is supposed to have appeared at Thiruneermalai when Arjuna conducted an Ashwamedhayagam after pralaya. Therefore, the sacred place is also known to grant your wishes and prayers.
Return from the temple
Having discovered such a legendary temple in our backyard that houses Lord Vishnu in four postures from different yugas or periods does fill your heart with joy. I plan to go back as many times as possible. I shall also collect more information from the temple and provide deeper details here.
As I mentioned, a few marriage halls are near the temple. The right that we had taken from the Pallavaram Junction earlier got chockablock while returning. We got stuck there as several incoming vehicles, which we believe were transporting the guests going to the marriage receptions. We got stuck there for almost 45 minutes. Once we hit the highway, we reached home in half hour.
Do visit the temple.
